Apr 09 2013
7 Comments
History, Temples & Shrines, Traveling in Japan

Part 2: Trip to Hiroshima, Onomichi, and Matsuyama

Day 3

Having logged a quality nine hours of sleep, I was up in time for the 7:30 breakfast knock on my door. This marked the second time that I have been served french fries for breakfast. Luckily there was plenty of other substantial foods on my tray to fill me up for a day full of biking.

I folded up my futon bedding, thanked the owner and his family for their hospitality, and was on the road at nine. Setoda Private Hostel is a little gem, located half way through on the bike trail.

It was a gorgeous morning. With the sun shining over orange orchards and temperatures rising, I soon had to take a pit stop on the side of the road to change into shorts and lather up some sun screen on my face.

The first stop on the day was a samurai museum in Omishima, one of the islands on the bike route. Omishima is nationally recognized for housing eighty percent of the samurai armor and weaponry that have been designated by the government as national treasures and important cultural properties.

I was in awe of the ancient artifacts on display before my eyes. I was starring at a samurai sword from the year 950 AD! In other display case, lay the armor and sword of Yoritomo Minamoto, the founder of the Kamakura period (1192-1333).  Proudly showcased down the hall stood the full body armor that belonged to Yoshikata Ochi, who is known for suppressing Sumitomo Fujiwara’s revolt. Michinobou Kono’s armor and sword were also on display. To think that this was the very armor worn by Michinobou when he helped Minamoto at the Battle of Gempei. All this history coming to life was hard to comprehend. The Omishima samurai museum is definitely a must see place for any fan of Japanese history, or just anyone interest in incredible samurai artifacts.

Next to the museum sits Oyamazumi Shrine. The main building called, Gohonden was originally built in the early 1200’s, and took nearly a century to complete. It was reconstructed in 1378 after a fire. And in 1953 it was dismantle and repaired to its present condition.

Oyamazumi exhibits a wave like style of architecture called, sangensha nagare-zukuri, found in many Shinto shrines. (Shinto is the indigenous religion of Japan). In Japan’s oldest forest of camphor trees, the roof of the shrine is comprised of beautiful cypress bark.

Oyamazumi is the deity of the shrine. He is the older brother of the Sun-Goddess, Amaterasu-omikami, so he played a pretty important role in the development of Japan. It is said that Oyamazumi is the god of seafarers, the land, and a guardian for all of Japan. Today, Oyamazumi is the only grand shrine in Shikoku. It is definitely worthy of this title, as its beauty is second to none. Even compared to all the shrines found in Kyoto, Oyamazumi stands out among the rest.

While I visited I witness a priest perform morning prayers to the sound of a slow drumbeat resonating within the hall. Later, I watched a family have their newborn baby undergo a special ceremony by the priest. I don’t know any details about this. Maybe this procedure would be like a baptism in Christianity.  Nonetheless, it was an interesting ceremony to watch, as the family lay kneeled inside the shrine across from a priest, decked out in all his Shinto garb.

Exploring the hallowed grounds and staring into hundreds of years of history worked up quite an appetite in me. I found a sushi restaurant not far from the shrine, and treated myself to a big sushi set. The owners’ elementary school kids were fascinated with having a foreigner in town. They even came outside to wave me goodbye.

The rest of the day was filled with a scenic bike ride alongside calm ocean coastlines, across bridges, and past loud industrial port factories. Before I knew it, I reached my final destination, Imabari city on Shikoku Island. I snapped a few quick photos of the cherry blossoms at Imabari Castle, then returned my bicycle and boarded the one and a half hour long train ride to Matsuyama city. At just over half a million people, Matsuyama is the largest city in Shikoku.

I arrived as the sun set behind the Inland Seto Sea. My guesthouse was about a twenty-five minute streetcar ride from the main station. Fortunately, it was in a superb location, just minutes away from the most famous and oldest onsen in all of Japan, Dogo Onsen. This onsen was once exclusively reserved for only the emperor, as special healing powers were though to flow from the well.

Today, people stroll the shopping streets around the onsen in their yukata bathrobes and shower baskets. It was quite the scene. One, I’m almost positive you will only find in Matsuyama.

Upon checking in at the guesthouse, I met a guy from Australia and another visitor from Taiwan. The three of us made our way over to Dogo Onsen. We bought our ¥800 ticket to use the 125 year-old bath house, and soak in water from a 3,000 year old hot spring. The ticket also included tea, Japanese crackers, and a yukata to relax in. Sipping on green tea and wearing a yukata inside a beautiful tatami mat room, with a taiko drumming performance serenading the streets outside the open-air windows, was an unforgettable experience.

I swallowed the last gulp of green tea and returned my yukata before heading back to the guesthouse for that night’s roof top yakiniku party, a Japanese style barbeque. The smell of grilled chicken, pork, and vegetables filled the air, as a very international group of travelers shared stories over delicious food. Around the table sat visitors from France, Spain, Italy, Poland, Japan, Singapore, and the United States. I felt fortunate to be surrounded with people from such unique backgrounds. There was so much all of us can learn from each other.

After dinner, conversation continued and I learned a lot about business practices in Shanghai. Discussing culture and politics in both Japan and China, always fascinates me. With a full belly and weary legs from biking all day, I crawled into my futon bedding.

Day 4

I arose rose early in the morning to the sound of light rain outside my window. Although it was seven, I got up and quietly lugged my bag to the lounge room downstairs, making sure not to wake anyone in the shared dormitory room. First on the agenda for the day was a trip back to Dogo Onsen to retrieve my cell phone, which I left there the night before.

I couldn’t find it in the tearoom of the onsen the night before when I went back look for it. But, the “Find My Phone” app indicated that my phone was still at the onsen. Fortunately the morning’s trip was successful as the security guard in the office presented me with my phone after filling out some paper work. Throughout the whole time without my phone, I was never nervous about losing it for good. After all, almost nothing in Japan is ever stolen. This can be seen by all the unlocked bicycles lining the street.

With my iphone in hand, I checked out by mid morning. The Sen Guesthouses’ owners were extremely friendly. They told me the best bus to take for my return trip, and gave me directions to the station. They even gave me an umbrella. Alongside a guy from Poland and another visitor from Spain (I was able to brush up on my limited Spanish!), I was en route to Matsuyama Castle.

Despite the raindrops, the cherry blossoms were in full bloom on the castle grounds. Originally completed in 1627 (Just seven years after the Pilgrims arrived in Plymouth), it was later struck by lightening and burned to the ground in 1784.  I guess that’s one of the downsides of building a five-story tower on a hill. Reconstruction of the present structure began in 1820 and everything remains in the original style, only two-stories shorter.

Matsuyama Castle is a magnificent sight to behold as the castle is perched on a 430-foot hill in the center of the city. Beautiful stonewalls with exceptional masonry are on display, alongside intricate family crests chiseled throughout the grounds. Two dolphin like fish sit on the pinnacles of the roof. These fish on castle roofs are called, “shachihoko”, and they are believed to help ward off evil. I guess they were sleeping on the job when that lightening bolt struck.

There is a moat surrounding the base of the hill, and there are multiple wings within the barricaded walls. The city of Matsuyama prides itself in boasting a castle that is one of only three multiple-wing castles to remain on a hilltop in the middle of a plain.  Only Wakayama and Himeji Castle share this rare characteristic.

After castle touring, I ate a sushi lunch with a great guy from Poland that I met at the guesthouse. The food was delicious and some other guests were so interested in use because we were foreigners, that they busted out some sake and told us to join them. It was a nice gesture, but I had to decline the invitation; I had a busy schedule ahead of me.

Since it was raining, I decided not to walk around Matsuyama for too long, and I boarded the 2:30 bus to Fukuyama, two and a half hours away. As the bus roared across the bridges that I had biked the previous day, I had plenty of time reflect on my stay in Matsuyama. The city exuberated traditional Japanese charm while also blending common western elements. For example, you could bathe in a 3,000 year-old onsen, then walk down the street to Starbucks. You could ride on a vintage stream train or a retro tram down historic streets, while gauging your location on your iphone’s map. For me it was the perfect blend. Combined with meeting and learning from travelers from across the globe, my stay in Matsuyama was wonderful. I recommend the city for anyone visiting Japan. After reflecting and a nap I arrived at the station.

Once at Fukuyama, I had a decision to make: take a series of regular trains for three hours, or hop on a bullet train for forty five minutes. I chose pay twenty-five extra dollars for the bullet train. It was an easy decision. Plus, who doesn’t want to zip through Japan at 180 MPH?

Just as the rain let up, I was able to stop at Himeji castle to view the cherry blossoms at night. I also thought it would be fun to stop in Himeji just so I could say I went to three castle in one day; Matsuyama, Fukuyama, and Himeji.

After Himeji I took a forty-five minute train to my bus stop, rode the bus for twenty-five minutes, then biked fifteen minutes home. What a full vacation. I’m glad I left Sunday fee to rest before returning to school on Monday.

The map below labels all the major stops. Included are the exact addresses for the ramen shop (B), and both guesthouses. Setoda (C) and Matsuyama (D).


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Apr 09 2013
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Traveling in Japan

Part 1: Trip to Hiroshima, Onomichi, and Matsuyama

April 1st marks the beginning of the Japanese fiscal year. It’s during this time that many changes happen in businesses and schools. Students graduate, teachers rotate through different schools, and a fresh sense of beginning fills the air amidst warmer weather and cherry blossoms.

Perhaps the best part about this time of year is that it provides English teachers like me a chance to travel and see new parts of Japan. With two weeks in between graduation and opening ceremony, I found my self with a lot of down time in the office. I spent much of this time planning my spring vacation trip.

Even though there are no classes, students continue to go to school to attend various club activities. Teachers commute to school as well, to prepare for the upcoming year. It’s interesting to note that in Japan, homeroom teachers stick with the same students, and move up a grade level each year. I also find the high turnover rate of teachers fascinating. Gym teachers change schools every year!

Luckily, I will remain at the same two schools. I’ve begun to settle in, as I connect better with other teachers and understand the routine of junior high schools.

As mentioned earlier, the arrival of spring means travel time. So here is a description of my trip to Hiroshima, Onomichi, and Matsuyama.

Day 1

Last Wednesday I woke up at the crack of dawn to bike, catch a bus, and transfer to a train, before boarding the bullet train to Hiroshima. I arrived just after nine o’clock with plenty of time to enjoy my McDonalds breakfast, before touring the Mazda automobile museum and factory.

The tour (free of charge) was informative and offered a nice balance of history while providing a unique behind the scenes look of how each car is assembled. The facility in Hiroshima is the head quarters of Mazda. It’s a large property complex with 3,200 company workers living in dormitories, where they are provided with a hospital and athletic center.

Mazda prides itself in striving for excellence, and standing out from its competitors. This is seen in their creative rotary style engine. They are the only car manufacturer to successfully develop and use such an engine. Through trial and error, and after many failures Mazda developed this unique motor after other automakers gave up on the idea. The perseverance to overcome early hardships at Mazda, symbolizes the spirit of the Hiroshima people.

After fantasizing about buying a Mazda back in the states, I took the streetcar to Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park, where I was asked by an older lady is she could take my picture in front of the A-bomb Dome; the only building to withstand the force of the atomic bomb dropped on August 6th, 1945. It was an odd request but I happily obliged.

I spent the next couple of hours just taking in the beautiful scenery of the city, as the riverbanks were all lined with cherry blossoms. I grabbed some soba for lunch and found one of my favorite things in Japan: the basement of a major department store called, SOGO. No, it does not stand for that special once a season baseball practice when coach yells “SOGO! Suns out, guns out!” and everyone gets to practice with their shirts off.

Instead SOGO in Japan is just a department store. But, I shouldn’t say, ‘just’, since every department store basement in Japan boasts a massive food court, with vendors offering all types of delicious cuisines. I picked up some fresh sushi and some momiji manju, Hiroshima’s famous souvenir. Momiji manju is a small maple leaf shaped cake filled with sweet bean paste. I even watched the chefs make it right in front of me.

I soon checked into my hotel nearby, where I wolfed down my sushi. By 5:30, I was out the door and on my way to the Hiroshima Carp professional baseball game. Once you’re at Hiroshima station, it’s easy to figure out where Mazda Zoom Zoom Stadium is because you just follow the red sea of Carp jerseys funneling into neighborhood streets en route to watch their beloved hometown boys.

Since it was still April, it was a brisk night to watch baseball outside. Besides my jeans and a light jacket, I didn’t have any warm clothes. I intentionally packed light for the trip. I came equipped with just a 25-liter backpack for 3 nights. However, I soon warmed up once I left my seat to tour the stadium.

Unfortunately, the ushers prevent fans from entering the any section of the stadium without a ticket for that specific section. But, I wasn’t going to let that stop me from getting close to the field. Especially on a night when the stadium was half full. I figured I’m only going to be at this ballpark once, so I might as well make the most of my time here. Thus, I pulled the foreigner card and told the usher in mostly English and some broken Japanese, that my friend was already at my seat with my ticket. Do I feel ashamed? A little. But, hey, YOJO! (You’re only in Japan once).

The game itself wasn’t too entertaining, as the Carp fell 6-2 to the Yakult Swallows. However, you would have never known the score was that lopsided, based on the amount of cheering and energy displayed by the fans. Drums, horns, and the unmistakable sound of inflatable plastic sticks striking each other, echoed throughout the stadium. It was a fun atmosphere to be apart of, despite the home team loss.

After the game, I managed to find and eat a late dinner at Okonomiyaki Mura, which is literally translated as, “Okonomiyaki City”. Okonomiyaki is a grilled dish comprised of egg-based batter, shredded cabage, thinly sliced pork, various seafoods, all coated with a thick and sweet sauce (think Worcestershire sauce, but sweet). And Okonomiyaki mura is a five story building in the city, housing an endless array of little okonomiyaki restaurants. Each one tastes slightly different, but each have one thing in common: all are Hiroshima style. Meaning, they are made with three times the amount of cabbage as normal, with noodles layered into the dish as well. Needless to say, it was delicious, especially at around eleven at night.

While enjoying my meal, my phone decided to die. Despite showing a battery life of 10%, it automatically turned off. It’s never good when you’re phone dies. It’s even worse when you are in a new city, and don’t remember where your hotel is. However I was fortunate enough to have a group of teachers sit next to me at dinner. One of which spoke English, and we chatted throughout the entire meal. At the end, they paid for my meal, insisting that it was, “Japanese style”. After, they even walked me to my hotel. I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again, Japanese people are some of the nicest people I’ve met. Day one was very full, and I was ready for sleep.

Day 2

I opted to walk twenty minutes from my hotel to the station, instead of taking the streetcar. I feel by traveling on foot, you gain a better understanding of the city and it’s people. Plus, it’s always entertaining to take in the morning sites. I witnessed storeowners sweeping the sidewalk, polishing off display windows, and meticulously cleaning out debris logged in between the corner hinges of front doors. Yes, the Japanese take great pride in presentation.

After an hour plus train ride, I arrived in Onomichi, a small port village loaded with shrines and home to some of Japan’s most famous authors. Now, when one visits Onomichi, it is imperative that one eat Onomichi style ramen. What makes Onomichi style ramen special is the soy sauce based broth and small melted chunks of pork lard. It’s salty, fatty, and tasty.

While waiting in line at, “Ichibankan Ramen” I met a couple of Japanese tourists who made the trek all the way to Onomichi for the ramen. After guzzling down our bowls, we walked across the street to try some traditional Japanese ice cream flavors at what the sign read as an, アイスキャンデーの店 , translated to, “ice candy shop.” Essentially, it was a popsicle shop. The owner recommended I try the sake flavor. It definitely had a unique taste, but wasn’t too bad.

I briefly checked out a few shrines that were scattered on the hillside overlooking the bay. By three o’clock I was on the five minute ferry with my rented bicycle ready to start the Shimanami Kaido, a bike route through a chain of islands connecting Japan’s largest island, Honshu, to Japan’s smallest of its four main islands, Shikoku.

The 45-mile cycling route goes through scarcely populated towns and six major bridges. There are rent-a-cycle terminals stationed along the road, so it’s easy to rent a bike for ¥500 ($5) a day and return it at a different location for a ¥1000 (you do the math) deposit fee. I chose to bike it in two days because there were some places on the islands that I wanted to take my time to explore. However, it can easily be completed in a day. I was also a week removed from a 75-mile bike ride around Awaji Island, so the idea of cycling all day on a grandmother style bike was out of the question. I felt like the Wicked Witch of the West riding around on this bike. All I needed was a little dog in my front basket, which, by the way, I did see.

After a sunny morning, clouds rolled in to make for an overcast day. The gray of the sky mixed with the depression of once bustling little towns, now deteriorating away due to a rapidly declining population, made for some bland scenery. I was also hungry, which may have impaired my vision. Luckily, I found an excellent gelato place only minutes from my private guesthouse. All the flavors were made from local fruits like orange, mango, peach, plum, fig, grape, and kiwi. The selection seemed endless. The best part was that it was all fresh and local. I chose a mango/fig combo. The mango was bursting with a smooth flavor and the fig had a surprisingly delicious grainy texture.

By 5:30 I checked in at, Setoda Private Hostel. I was their only guest and they made me a delicious dinner featuring locally caught fish. After the meal, I soaked in the newly completed home made bathhouse overlooking the sunset on the beach. It was the perfect way to end the day. The look and smell of white spruce lining the walls instantly created a relaxing atmosphere. I soon made my way to my room and stacked five futons on the floor for my bed. I slept like a baby.

Day 3

…to be continued

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Apr 07 2013
2 Comments
History, Traveling in Japan

Ryoanji Temple, A Must See

Founded in 1450, Ryoanji Temple, or “The temple of the peaceful dragon” is a zen temple belonging to the Rinzai school. The gorgeous grounds were originally a Fujiwara family estate during the Heain Period, dating from 794-1185. Here is a brief overview for all you history buffs…

Hosokawa Katsumoto inherited the property and lived here before the Onin Wars, when all the buildings were burned to the ground. In his will, he wanted the garden to be a zen temple after his passing. Thus, Hosokawa Masumoto, the son of Katsumoto rebuilt the temple in 1499 to fulfill his father’s dream.

Now that we have all that history out of the way, let’s get to some description.

The iconic rock garden is said to be designed by Tokoho Zenketsu. In this simple yet elegant garden of meticulously raked gravel, there sits fifteen large rocks, shrouded in green moss. The placement of the rocks was designed so that from every angle, the observer can only see fourteen. A common belief is that only the enlightened can see all fifteen at once.

Before entering the rock garden viewing veranda, visitors walk alongside Kyoyochi Pond. A few wooden buckets are placed next to nearby wells, giving the whole estate a feeling that it has been untouched since 1500.

The rock garden itself measures 25 meters by 10 meters. Barricading the long side of the garden, opposite of the viewer lays a wall made up of earthy colors. The clay composing the wall was actually boiled in oil. Now, the oil is slowly seeping out, giving it a distinctive and timeless appearance.

Many visitors come here each day to stare into the rock garden and decide for him/herself what the significance is. For me it is a peaceful place to reflect deep in thought. It was easy to feel the harmony around you because there were so many other people reflecting as well. Visiting this temple helped me better understand Japanese culture because it showed me that you can never really become enlightened just by forcing yourself to see all fifteen rocks. That is not physically possible. But, in a sense, I guess this thinking is what zen is all about.

I hope I can visit again because there is nothing like sitting on a beautiful hardwood floor overlooking a perfectly groomed rock garden. I want to remember relaxing and pondering about how many people for how many years have done the same thing. It just shows that we are all not that different after all. 

Ryoanji is very easy to find, and only a stones throw away from the more famous, Golden Pavilion named, Kinkakuji. Below are photos during cherry blossom season from my visit last week.


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Apr 07 2013
6 Comments
Culture, Traveling in Japan

Spring In Kyoto

Wandering the ancient streets of Gion is maybe my favorite thing to do in Japan. It is in these narrow and secluded alleyways where each step transports you further back in time. A time where samurai values such as bushido, the code of chivalry, governed the nation. A time before Japan became known for bullet trains, robots, and animae. This is the Japan that I love.

Close to the popular Kiyomizudera Temple, lies an ancient underworld quietly tucked away from the throngs of tourists. You won’t find any flashy storefront displays. Nor will there be vendors to entice visitors with free green tea and yatsuhashi, Kyoto’s famed soft triangle shaped mochi.  Instead, there are only tightly packed traditional wooden merchant houses, uncontaminated from the last seventy years of post war modernization.

All these traditional houses, called machiyas,  have narrow facades no longer than twenty feet wide. However, each extends more than sixty feet deep from the main street.  These odd dimensions are the result of old property taxes that were based upon street frontage. Beautiful wooden lattice work and heavy clay roof tiles encapsulate these gems. Sadly, many of these buildings are facing a declining population, as Japan struggles to find a balance between preserving traditional culture, while embracing Western elements.

Sprinkled throughout these streets lay luxurious teahouses. A passerby may even catch a rare glimpse of a geisha or a maiko, a geisha in training recognized by longer sleeves and more elaborate hair styles, commuting between client meetings.

This time of year, pink and white cherry blossoms fill the sky and add a nice contrast to the stone walkways and dark colored roof tiles that line the street. I can’t think of a better image that screams, “This is Japan,” than cherry blossom leaves swirling in a light breeze amidst the streets of Gion.

Below are photos from some neighborhoods in Gion and Kiyomizudera Temple.


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Apr 02 2013
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Food, Traveling in Japan

Kyo-Kinana Ice Cream in Gion, Kyoto

Tucked away in the back streets of Gion in a traditional wooden merchant house lies Kyo-Kinana, a delectable ice cream shop. After parting the blue noren, a traditional cloth doorway divider decorated with the store’s name in white kanji characters, visitors are greeted by a charming hostess.

From here you have two options: Stand at the bar while eating the flavor of the day. Or, you can choose to wait in line for seated dinning upstairs. Besides the lack of a chair, the difference between the two options lies in the menu. Guests who choose to eat at the bar, are limited to one flavor of ice cream. When I went, the featured flavor was soybean. Although, there is no variety, this is the best option if you desire the freshest ice cream, as the soybean was made only moments earlier that day.

However, if you have been walking around Kyoto all day and need a rest, then I recommend waiting in line for a table up stairs. While in line, you can peruse the menu.

MENU

On the menu, there are six choices of ice cream and three different varieties of parfaits. Flavors include maccha (green tea), azuki (sweet red bean), kurogoma (black sesame), kuromitsu (brown sugar syrup), yomogi (mugwort) and kinako (soybean).  The parfait include a warabi mochi themed flavor called, Kinana Hapon, a yogurt and frozen berry delight, named Berry Berry Kinana, and a tiramisu option called Kinana Italian. If you’re here for flavors like Phish Food or Chubby Hubby, then you’re out of luck. Only traditional Japanese flavors are served under chef Omotosan’s roof. He even travels to specific regions of Japan to hand pick the ingredients. In Japan, the obsession and agonizing over every minor detail in pursuit of perfection is known as “kodawari”, and is common cultural theme still seen today.

After agonizing myself over what I should order, I decided upon the Kinana Italian Parfait. Your order will be taken before you are seated, so once you reach your table, your creamy confection will arrive shortly. But, before your indulge in Japan’s finest ice cream, you are served hot tea. Sipping along while cleaning your hands with a steaming hot towel brings a welcomed wave of relaxation after visiting all the busy temples and shrines earlier in the day.

Soon after rolling up the hand towel, my parfait arrived. Despite being extremely hungry, or as they say in Japanese, “hara hetta”, I hesitated to scarf it down. The artistic creativity was too impressive to devour before taking a few pictures.

MOMENT OF TRUTH

Upon first bite, the Italian parfait did not disappoint. Layered throughout the masterpiece were moist bite sized chocolate cakes and chunks of candied chestnuts between creamy soybean and tiramisu ice cream. A pool of rich chocolate settled at the bottom of the glass to go along with the fresh raspberries placed on top. A sweet and crispy home made baked cinnamon yatsuhashi lay speared into the top scoop to complete this work of art.

The crunchiness of the yatsuhashi cracker nicely complemented the soft chestnut pieces hidden throughout the treat. The kinana ice cream itself, made with much more cream than regular ice cream, tasted less creamy than I anticipated. I assume that once frozen, it loses its heavenly texture. Overall, I was very satisfied with my order. But, next time I will go for the fresh soy bean ice cream at the bar downstairs. However, I’ll need to save up my yen before I return, as that parfait costs just over 1,000 yen, about $10. But hey, you’re only in Japan once. Check it out on the map below.

Unmarked, except for some small Japanese on the blue cloth hanging over the entrance, Kyo-Kinana Ice Cream can be easy to miss.
Downstairs looking into the bar.
Guests can bring home jams, cookies, and sweets.
I don’t even know where to start to describe this.
Looks too good to eat.

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Mar 13 2013
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Traveling Outside of Japan

Weekend Trip to Seoul

When you’ve been living in Japan for six straight months, there are definitely times when you feel like you need to get away for a long weekend. Don’t get me wrong, I love Japan. But sometimes a change of scenery is nice. Luckily, due to Japan’s convenient location, you can hop on a quick two hour flight to Seoul for pretty cheap. So, that’s exactly what I did in January.

Some of you may be asking, “Why would you want to go to Seoul in January, when it’s freezing cold?”. The answer is simple; it’s cheaper to go to Korea, than it is to ski in Nagano or Hokkaido, where I was originally planning to visit. Additionally, I have a friend teaching English in Korea, who I knew would show me some fun places. (She was a great tour guide.) Plus, why not visit a new country and experience a different culture?

This trip marked the third country I have traveled to. Seeing how I’ve only been to Japan, and both times it was organized with a big group, I was a little anxious about going to Korea. But there was really no reason to be. In fact, it was easier to fly to Seoul than it was making all those flights to my college in St. Louis from Boston. I didn’t even need to take off my shoes!

Day 1

I arrived at Incheon International Airport at 9:00 PM. From the airport, there is a train station that can take you to anywhere in Seoul. After getting off at Hongik, a lively university neighborhood, my travel partner and I walked around in circles for close to an hour in 20 degree weather in search of out hostel. We made a pit stop at a coffee shop to fuel up on some hot chocolate and use their wifi to figure out where we were. You can probably see at least 3 coffee shops in any direction no matter where you are in Seoul. Unlike Japan, they all have free wifi.

Finally, just before midnight, we found our hostel and unpacked. We went back out on the streets to grab a quick bite to eat. It was here where I ate kimchi, a spicy fermented vegetable dish, for the first time. Koreans love kimchi, and it’s served at every meal. Essentially, it’s Korea’s version of U.S. restaurants giving out bread/rolls. Just be ready to extinguish the fire in your mouth left by the kimchi. Exhausted and full of delicious Korean food, we made our way back to the hostel for some much needed sleep.

The hostel staff was super friendly, and the owner even stayed up to welcome us! I highly recommend the Bebop Guesthouse. Not only is the staff hospitable, but they give you fresh towels, soap/shampoo, and breakfast. All this luxurious hostel treatment will only run you about than $40 for two nights. Such a bargain.

Day 2

Saturday was full of touristy things. First off, we went to beautiful Changdeokgung Palace, a 600-year-old UNESCO World Heritage site. After viewing the palace, we walked fifteen minutes to Insadong, traditional Korean shopping street, to buy some gifts for friends and family back home.

We ate lunch here, and sampled various street food as well. I recommend the sweet bean paste filled pooped shaped waffle bread. Trust me, you won’t regret it. When in Korea, eat poop bread. Also, egg bread, called, gye-ran-bbang, is surprisingly delicious. Especially when fresh out of the oven on a freezing cold day. This delectable treat is made from a pancake-like batter baked in muffin pans. A raw egg is cracked after filling the muffin tray about a quarter of the way with batter. Next, more batter is added on top, so the egg boils in the center of the bread. It sounds a little different, but combined with the slightly salty egg, the sweet dough melts in your mouth.

Later that night we went to Seoul Tower and used “the world’s fastest elevator”. The inside of the elevator is pretty neat, as it’s black lighted with a huge monitor on the ceiling, which simulates you being on a space shuttle.

Day 3

We looked around Itaewon, the foreigner neighborhood, and ate a delicious lunch at a German bakery. Since it was so cold we decided to go inside and check out the National Museum of Korea. That night we stayed at Sauna. Yes, that’s right, we slept over at a Sauna. Except in Korea, it’s called a, jimjilbang.

We went to Siloam Jimjilbang, and it was awesome. You walk in, pay $12 for the night, and are given pajamas. From here, you can go to the bath house, get a message, eat at the restaurant, go to the juice bar, watch a movie, play ping pong, sing karaoke, and even work out in the huge fitness center. Additionally, the top floor (5th) is reserved for sleeping. Here, the women’s and mens rooms are separated, and each comes filled with bunk beds. There are even two smaller rooms reserved for all you snorers.

Just beside the ticket counter is the entrance to the locker room. Be prepared to walk into a room full of naked dudes. Protocol calls for you to leave your clothes in a locker, and strut your stuff down stairs to the baths. The bath house was a little different than ones in Japan. Instead of sitting on a tiny bucket, you stand while scrubbing your body clean with the soaps and shampoos provided. Additionally, Siloam Jimjilbang offers a wide variety of pools. You have the option of soaking in a warm wood bath, a charcoal bath, a jade bath with green water, an earth soil bath with yellow water, a cold pool, some jet pools, and an intense/painful waterfall shower. Each one is supposed to have some sort of special effect on your body.

You can also pay to have an old guy oil you up for a full body scrub; I passed.

After showering you can change into your pajamas and join your friends upstairs in the various sauna rooms. I can’t remember all of them, but a few include heated jade, salt, ice, and charcoal. Overall, it was very relaxing and a distinctly unique Korean experience.

Day 4

We started the day off right at Dunkin Donuts. If you’re used to the somewhat dirty Dunkin Donuts packed in at every street corner in New England, then think again. In Seoul, they are equipped with leather couches and glass display cases. The menu is different, as it includes such drinks as sweet potato latte (it’s purple!) and green tea latte. The donut variety is completely different, and theyeven serve whole cakes. You can check out the pictures for more details.

I know Korea has delicious food, and I got my fill on many of the traditional dishes. But for a Boston native, it was a pleasant surprise to see so many Dunkin Donuts. I went four times.

After visiting a fun trick eye museum, we made our way to Incheon airport. Compared to all the airports I’ve been to in the U.S. and a couple in Japan, this is definitely the best one. It even has a skating rink inside. I bought some omiyage (souvenir gifts) for both my schools, and quickly boarded my flight home. Hopefully, I can get myself to Seoul again. Next time, I’ll make sure to go when it’s a little warmer.

Seoul vs. Tokyo

Although South Korea and Japan may currently disagree over the ownership of a cluster of islands in the Sea of Japan, both are a pleasure to visit. During the flight home, I couldn’t help myself from comparing these neighboring countries. One has been brutally oppressed by it’s neighbor throughout history. But has also recently seen tremendous economic growth, sprouting such companies as Samsung and LG. While the other has seen its decades of Asian dominance dwindle due to a revolving door of prime ministers and negligible economic growth. Here is a short list of observable differences between Seoul and Tokyo.

  • In Seoul, it’s okay to talk on your cell phone on the subway. If you try this in Japan, the yakuza might make a house visit.
  • In Seoul, it seemed like there was free wifi everywhere. On the other hand, finding free wifi in Japan is like finding Willy Wonka’s golden ticket.
  • Bathrooms have paper towels for you to dry your hands with in Seoul.
  • Buildings have insulation in Seoul. This “modern” marvel has yet to reach Japan.
  • Due to genius piping, floors are heated in Seoul! In my Japanese apartment, I’m pretty sure the air is a good 8-10 degrees colder around my feet.
  • You can drink/eat on-the-go in Seoul. In Tokyo, it’s custom to only drink next to the vending machine.
  • There are trash cans in Seoul. If you find find one on a street in Japan, its like spotting an endangered lynx.
  •  When it comes to customer service, Japan tops Seoul. However, Seoul is extremely welcoming to visitors.
  • Trains tickets in Seoul are reusable plastic cards. When you return them, you get $.50 back. In Japan, the turnstile eats your ticket.
  • Everything is less expensive in Seoul. In fact, a fellow teacher of mine is making a one day trip to Seoul just to shop!
  • There are larger food portions in Seoul. Although Japan presents its food in a nicer style with more delicacy.
  • Socially, South Korea seems to be a little further along than Japan when it comes to women’s rights. Park Geun-hye was recently the first women elected as president in South Korea.
  • In Seoul, the cars (all of which seemed to be Hyundai or Kia) are like regularly sized U.S. cars. In Japan, there is no need for a large car and many of them are tiny. These are called “kei cars” or “yellow plates”.
  • Most things in Japan are 2/3 the sized of what American’s are used to. This is not the case for South Korea, as there are some big boys from that country.

Overall, it would definitely be more convenient to spend a winter in South Korea because of their heated floors and insulation. However, it was refreshing, maybe even a relief, to hear the stewardess speak in Japanese during the return flight. It provided me with some comfort to know that I was returning to a place where I felt more at home.

If you have anymore observations comparing these two countries, please leave a comment.

Outside of Bebop Guesthouse
Changdeokgung entrance
One of the many buildings within Changdeokgung Palace
Bibimba, a traditional Korean dish
Sweet bean paste filled waffle poop bread!
Egg bread.
Korean pancakes. Very greasy.
More street food. Make sure to check the prices ahead of time. I was ripped off here, and paid $20.
Seoul Tower
Is it really the world’s fastest elevator?
Seoul at night
Empty streets at night
Siloam Jimjilbang
Common area in the jimjilbang
super hot sauna in the jimjilbang
Interupted this guy’s sleep in the ice room.
Salt sauna
Jade sauna
I be up in the gym, workin’ on my fitness
DD drink menu. The sweet potato latte is addicting.
DD sandwich menu.
Bread all day!
A little different vibe inside than what I’m used to in the States.
A nice selection of donuts.
So many flavors.

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Mar 11 2013
2 Comments
Traveling in Japan

Ski Trip and Snow Monkey Onsen in Nagano

Last weekend, I was able to check off one more prefecture on my list, as I traveled to Nagano. Alongside a hundred other people and three coach buses, I departed Osaka on Friday night. After a seven hour drive while crammed in seats designed for, well, smaller people, I managed to rehabilitate both my legs before hitting the slopes at Ryuo Ski Resort.

The hotel I stayed at.

The hotel I stayed at.

A custom tracked van designed to maneuver in the snow delivered me from the parking lot to my hotel. The mountain resort staff was expecting us, and laid out all our ski clothing and rentals on a table for us to pick up. Now, if you’re expecting ski lodges in Japan to be like your basic lodge in the states, then think again. Here are just a few differences between skiing experiences in Japan and the U.S. that I have observed from two ski trips here:

 

  • In Japan, everyone changes into their ski gear in the parking lot, and hikes up to the lift in their ski boots.
  • There are no fire places in the lodge. Nor are there many inside areas for you to just hangout out and warm up.
  • It’s impossible to find ski rentals post 1998ish. Everything is very outdated, but it still works. Again, this is just from visiting two resorts.
  • No hot chocolate
  • Chair lifts are extremely low to the ground. Meaning, instead of the chair hitting you in the back of the knee while you get on, it catches you just about your ankle. This is convenient for an infant, but a bit surprising for a grown adult. Looking back, I can remember a time when I was very young and my sister and cousin sandwiched me off the lift as I struggled to hop on. Although they were successful in having the operator stop the entire lift for me to pick myself off the ground and crawl up to the chair, I don’t believe their scheme would have ever worked had we been getting on a Japanese chairlift.
  • I’m convinced that 80+% of Japanese people snowboard. You can’t escape boarders sitting in the middle of the trail; They’re everywhere. (Yes, I know I sound like an east coast ski snob)
  • The views from mountains in Gifu and Nagano put most views from east coast mountains in the US.. to shame.
Is this a great view or what?

Is this a great view or what?

As mentioned previously, there are some incredible views from mountain summits in Nagano, and Saturday was no different. There wasn’t a cloud in the sky and the temperature was in the 50′s (very unusual for early March). Resultantly, the snow turned to slush as the day progressed. But, it was nice not shivering your butt off on a chairlift.

One of the coolest things on the mountain was the gondola that holds 160 people! It’s proclaimed to be the largest one in Japan. However, it doesn’t take you to the top of the mountain. And, that’s not saying much since the mountain seemed to be dwarfed by its surrounding neighbors. I was definitely a little disappointed in the height of the mountain, and the number of trails available, but I couldn’t complain on such a beautiful day. I guess you need to go to the Hakuba region of Nagano to get that olympic quality ski experience. Overall, if someone invites you to make the trek up to northern Nagano to Ryuo Ski Park, don’t feel bad about declining the invitation.

A warm and hazy afternoon.

A warm and hazy afternoon.

After skiing on Saturday, Sunday provided me with the opportunity to see the famed onsen snow monkeys. It was about a thirty minute drive from the hotel, followed by a short twenty minute walk in the woods. At Jigokudani Monkey Park, the smell of natural rich sulfer greeted me as I made my way off the bus, but it soon dissipated after a few minutes of hiking. Along the way, you might be able to catch a few monkeys of the side of the trail. I guess these are the outcasts ones who aren’t allowed in the onsen.

Sweet old bike at the monkey onsen.

Sweet old bike at the monkey onsen.

However, many monkeys are permitted by their peers to bathe in the natural hot spring waters, and I was able to get a few pictures amongst the flock of tourists. It was a fun experience to have monkeys walking all around you. Just make sure you don’t stare daggers at them because it might provoke them to attack. Just as I was leaving, the rain turned to big snow flakes, but I didn’t want to trek back up the trail to get more pictures. So, you’ll have to settle with rainy ones.

By three o’clock I was back on the bus en route for Osaka, with that Sunday night feeling where you know it’s only a matter of hours before you need to be back at school. However, seeing the snow monkey onsen definitely made it a worthwhile trip.


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Feb 07 2013
3 Comments
Culture, Life on Awaji

VIDEO: Awaji Island coast line, Setsubun, & Mochi Maki

Today, I will share with you a little Japanese culture that I witnessed first-hand on Setsubun weekend. (If you don’t want the culture lesson, there is a video at the bottom.)

“Setsubun” is a bean throwing festival in the beginning of February performed by family households. It literally means “seasonal division”, and its purpose is meant to purge all evil from the past year, and prevent any future evil spirits from the year to come. Now, I know what you’re thinking, ‘how does one effectively ward off an evil Japanese spirit from entering my life?’ Well, I’m glad you asked.

First, you need to get your self a hand full of beans. But, not just any beans; You need 100% authentic roasted Japanese soy beans. Any other type of bean will only feed the evil spirit and make it grow stronger until the actual authentic soybeans lose their potency. I recommend the oldest, driest, most flakiest beans you can get your hands on, much like the ones served at my school lunch last week. After all, what else would you put you faith in when it comes to fending off thousands of years of Japanese demons?

Once you have your beans, double check that they truly are authentic. I’ve lost some neighbors to these spirits because they unknowingly bought counterfeit beans on ebay.

Next, make sure the man of the house, preferably the man whose birthday animal most closely corresponds to the current Chinese zodiac, is the one you have throwing these beans. According to Japanese folklore, it is absolutely imperative a man makes the throw. This is actually were the saying “You throw like a girl!” came from, and not from watching Johnny Damon play center field. (I do not endorse this saying, as the one of the best players on my high school baseball team was indeed a girl, who struck out MLB draft picks).

No quite, "The power of Christ compels you!" But beans are till a potent weapon.

No quite, “The power of Christ compels you!” But beans are still a potent weapon.

Finally, have this man stand in the front doorway of your house, throw the beans outside, and yell, “Oni wa soto! Fuku wa uchi!” (Demons out. Luck in). Once you have slammed the door closed and eaten one bean for each year of your life, you have successfully completed Setsubun, and protected your family from Japanese demons. Congratulations.

On another note, I also attended a sea food festival last weekend. I enjoyed fresh squid, eel, and mackerel tempura. As well as a delicious fish soup.  Everything was free and locally caught. It was great to see an entire community come together, as I believe food is one of the best ways to understand one’s culture.

While enjoying the fresh sea food, I was interviewed by the local TV news station! I guess being the only foreigner and tallest person there made me stand out. After my two minutes of fame, I witnessed another Japanese tradition. Although it involves throwing food, there were no demons to worry about.

People love their mochi here.

People love their mochi here.

This tradition is called, mochi maki. Mochi is Japanese rice pounded into a cake, and mochi maki is a the throwing of Japanese rice cakes. In this mochi maki, the town’s mayor and other town office members stood on the bed of a tuck and began chucking these prized cakes into the crowd. When the announcement was made that the event would start, everyone flocked towards the truck. I have never seen elderly people run so fast in my life. They loved it! Amidst the tide of elderly mochi passion engulfing me, I was able to snag a cake…sometimes it pays to have a 6+ foot wing span.

I hope you enjoyed the little culture lesson. I had a blast witnessing it first hand. Below is a video taken on the way to the festival.

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Jan 23 2013
7 Comments
Life on Awaji, Teaching English

A Day in a Japanese Junior High School Teacher’s Office

As I approach the sixth month mark since arriving in Japan, I figure I should give you a little insight into what a typical day is like inside a junior high school teacher’s office in Japan. I teach at two different junior high schools. I’m grateful to have friendly and helpful teachers at both schools.

8:05 AM I pass my principle at the intersection outside the school. Every morning he plays crossing guard while waving a big flag to make sure 13-15 year olds cross a one lane street safely on a back road. This road gets maybe 15 cars a minute. This is more of a way to welcome students on their way to school than a safety precaution. Never the less, I think its pretty neat that school principles do this in Japan, as they have very little time to interact with students. Shortly after giving him the ole, “Ohayou gozaimasu!”, I pull up to school in style. Today, I am sporting a giant fur winter hat and a 24 gear all white bicycle that is sized for someone about 5 inches shorter than me. But I can’t complain because the bike was free, as it was left by my predecessor.

As for the hat, I notice two teacher’s standing afar off and chuckling to each other, while motioning their hands around their head in reaction to my new dome piece. They think I can’t see them. But I know they are just jealous that they cant experience the feel of plush genuine rabbit fur, lining their frozen cheeks with goose down insulating their bare heads.

Look at all that fur!

Look at all that fur!

8:10 AM I’m inside the teacher’s office now and I listen to the morning announcements given my both the vice principle and then by the principle. To me, it sounds a lot like a telephone conversation on a Charlie Brown cartoon; I don’t understand a thing. By now, I am used to being the last to know what’s going on. Interestingly, many other teacher’s continue to open desk drawers, crinkle bags, and read their email. I guess in Japan when your boss is addressing you, it’s okay not to give him/her your full attention.

8:40 AM Homeroom is over and the bell for first period rings. Luckily, I have this period off, and I use my time to plan a lesson for the next period. Today’s topic: ordering food and comparing McDonalds in Japan to the U.S.. I put together a quick power point highlighting the major differences, like how a large soda in Japan is just 1.5 more ounces than a small in the U.S..

9:40 AM Second period starts and I reveal to my students how McDonalds has been ripping them off their entire lives with tiny cups. I do however explain how nice it is that at McDonalds in Japan, sometimes the entire staff bows to you and excitingly say, “Irrashaimase!”. This means, “Welcome. Please take your time.” No country can beat Japan’s customer service.

10:30 AM Class ends and I return to my desk to grab some materials for my next class.

10:45 AM I return to the teacher’s office because nobody showed up to my class. I ask a Japanese English teacher where the students are. He tells me that there is no class because a few of the students have the flu. Information like this would have been nice to know earlier. I’m a little confused as to why the entire class was cancelled, but there are no English speaking teachers in the office at the moment.

11:00-12:30 PM Read the news, study Japanese, check email/facebook/instagram/anything else that distracts me from studying. Another teacher clips his finger nails over a trash can at his desk. After six months, it almost seems normal to hear the sound of clippers cutting away while in the office. It’s also common to hear hear teeth being brushed too. I would like to note that not all teachers agree with the practice of nail cutting and teeth brushing in the office.

12:30-1:00 PM Eat lunch. I’m surprised to see one of my favorite meals sitting on my lunch tray. It’s a huge bowl of yakisoba. This is essentially the Japanese version of chow mein. Today’s version is fried noodles with chicken, some vegetables, and a delicious sauce.

One of my favorite Japanese dishes, yakisoba.

One of my favorite Japanese dishes, yakisoba.

At lunch I sit with the other Japanese English teacher. I finally get an explanation why class was cancelled. It turns out that if a few kids have the flu, the ENTIRE class stays home until all the students feel better! So this means in the morning, before school starts, the teacher has to call every student’s house to tell them not to go to school. I’m told that these students must stay inside all day and study from home. I’m pretty sure if America had this rule, then kids would just rotate acting sick year round, and everyone would play outside everyday.

1:00-1:20 PM Lunch is winding down and I go to third year’s home room. (In Japan, students eat lunch in their home room class room.) I stick my head in the door and yell, “Basketball. Ikimashou!” (Basketball. Lets go!) We’re off to the gym for a little 3 vs. 3 action. I just started playing with them at lunch this week because it can get really boring in the office. I swear time stands still in there.

1:30-4:10 PM I have the entire afternoon off. No classes. No lesson planning. Nothing. I spend this time organizing my desk and finally filing a bunch of loose papers that I have accumulated. There is a five minute long meeting in the teacher’s office between periods. Again, I am clueless. Luckily, another teacher informs me that the announcement was made to let everyone know that tomorrow’s New Year’s party has been cancelled. I asked why, and he said it’s because one teacher has the flu and they don’t want it to spread to everyone at the party. WHAT?!

I’m still trying to wrap my head around this logic. I understand that Japan is very much focussed on “the group,” and they would never want to  exclude a group member from anything. But canceling a whole party on account for one person seems a little too much. This is just another example of how fearful many Japanese are when it comes to catching the flu.

I’m able to kill about 30 minutes in the break room by talking with the Japanese English teacher over some coffee. His class has the flu too, so he is in the same boat as me with in not having anything to do. However, once we finished our coffee, we return to our desks to make it look like we are working away very busily. After all, this is traditional Japanese manner. You must always look like you are busy. It’s all about saving face over here.

It’s 4:10 and time to go home, but something feels odd. It’s probably because the entire staff room is empty. On my way out, I see through the window that all the teachers are having a meeting in the conference room. It definitely feels a little awkward walking past this meeting. I wonder what they’re talking about? Maybe what to do with the two classes that can’t go to school, or when to reschedule the party, or how to more effectively use me. I doubt the latter.

I hope you enjoyed a day inside a Japanese junior high school teacher’s office. This was a particularly slow day. I usually have around three classes. But today, it was just one. If you have any further questions, please don’t hesitate to ask.

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Jan 06 2013
1 Comment
Uncategorized

VIDEO: Japan in 2012

Japan is full of beauty and rich in culture. Here are some places I’ve seen during my first five months. Enjoy!

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